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Tunnel-building at Winter Creek

Many people have asked how I built the tunnel. This feature more than any other seems to attract non-enthusiasts like no other. So here's an overview:

The Design
The tunnel is built on a 13m radius curve on a 1in40 downgrade. This limited the choice of construction methods. I had really wanted to build a concrete tunnel to the proper curve profile, but after lengthy investigations with local concrete experts I deemed it too hard/expensive. Ideally I would have build a short former and moved it progressively, but this would have meant many trips with a concrete truck and pump - not cheap. The alternative was to build the former for the whole length of the tunnel and pour in one go. Thats when I decided that if I had to build a wooden tunnel former anyway - it might as well be a timber lined tunnel.

Digging
The first step was to dig out the trench: Up until this point I had done all the digging by hand - great exercise, but a bit much in this case as the trench is over 3m (10ft) deep in places - (check out photo three: thats a 6ft step ladder on top of the tunnel!) This was before the 2.5 tonne Cat digger arrived - so a local contractor was contacted.

The Local Digger operator was intrigued by the project - turns out he is an HO modeller and relished the opportunity to do some scenery making on a large scale. Ended up moving a couple of hundred m2 of soil (covered by a resource consent). This was placed on the other half of the horseshoe curve to build the ground up by about 1m. Becuase the slope is quite steep just below this point the new slope merges with the top of the existing slope and results in the feel of an impressively high embankment.  The trench was dug out on an extra 300-500mm or so to allow for drainage works. Some Novaflow and heaps of scoria rock brought the level back up, and have meant no drainage problems whatsoever. I hand-trimmed the walls of the trench to be exactly the width of the frames + the cladding + 10mm or so.







Framing
I studied engineering practice for retaining walls and upped the specs a bit for the actual tunnel. The frames are 125mm (5") square house piles put together in a series of rectangles. The idea is to transfer the force from top to bottom and one side to another. The frames have an inside measurement of 1500mm x 1000mm (60x39 inches).

I asked Dave Giles what measurements would suit his big shays. The Manukau club's tunnel is 900mm wide and Dave said it just wasn't enough clearance for him to get out/off the locomotive and suggested the 1m.

If you look closely at photo 4 you will see the vertical members of the frames are let into the bottom and top members. I felt this would add strength in what is essentially a compressive force situation and this has proved correct (more on this later). The frames are held together with gang-nails and large steel pins, placed so they are not visible from within the finished tunnel.
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Frames are spaced at 900mm centres. The photo at the right was taken when I was busy getting them aligned both with the curve and the gradient.
I used an awful lot of 200 x 50 (8"x2"), H4 retaining wall timber. Each length was cut to match a specific frame to frame measurement and rammed home. Most needed me standing on them and hitting with a heavy post rammer to force them between the dirt wall and the frames. Because they all have random overlapping joints and are under tension with the curve and rammed between compacted clay & frames - the structure was very solid at this point!

 Once the basic box was complete, the portals were constructed, the top and exposes sides covered with heavy-duty polythene sheet, and novaflow/scoria placed along the tops of the sides where the banks had been sloped back (for safety during construction - I didn't fancy being in a straight sided trench 3m deep) I left the project at this point for the winter to check all the drainage etc. 

The fill was a few loads of free fill obtained from a local contractor. It was dumped into the trench from one side and stayed that way for 3-4months. THIS WAS A MISTAKE! The fill put slow but steady pressure on the tunnel box and it moved out of square on 4-5 frames. The scoria placed each side happily resettled and there was no way short of a bomb that the frame could be coaxed back to plumb. So I am stuck with it. The fill has been properly distributed for about a 3 years now and the tunnel has not moved in any direction.
The final photo shows the 2.5 tonne digger used to fill in over the tunnel. I admit to some trepidation while driving it over the tunnel for the first time! All and all it was a really interesting project, and I am glad I attempted it and not leave it as a cutting. I have a deepish cutting further down the line that was dug last summer and I must admit to measuring it up for a second tunnel....oh-well some people never learn!



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